This particular method uses contact paper (or sticky-back plastic as it’s known to schoolchildren and librarians alike), but you can also use a sheet of acetate, paper, card or stencil film. I’m going to go with contact paper for this one because although it’s not really re-usable (many prints can be made with the one stencil, but once you clean up and peel it off it’s pretty much gone) it does happen to make pretty clean images.

You will need:

Contact paper

Brown plastic-y parcel tape.

Exacto knife.

A screen with mesh.

A squeegee.

Screen printing ink- or acrylic paint with screen printing medium.

Good paper.

Scrap paper.

Again, this is a project to organise before any ink is poured because screens can and will clog if you leave them- and a wasted screen is a sad thing.

1. Cut your design. Cut through both layers of contact paper, and bear in mind that the negative space will be printed.

If you have any ‘islands’ (bits of contact paper that will stop ink touching the paper- unconnected to the main stencil by bridges) make sure you keep these, and if necessary label them.

2. Remove the paper backing from your contact paper and stick it to the flat (under) side of your screen. It’s easiest to do this by peeling one edge at a time, smoothing from the centre and sticking it bit by bit to the screen- try not to get any bubbles trapped!

3. When this is done you can turn the screen over so the recessed side is facing you. Use your brown tape to mask off all the other space in your screen, working from the edges towards the centre. This can get a bit screwed up if you don’t know the trick! Take off a length of tape roughly equal to the inner edge of the frame. Hold each end in a hand, and ‘fold’ it, whilst trying not to handle the sticky side too much. Place on the screen- pushing the central section down first and moving outwards.

After the four sides are done, the entirety of the screen not covered by the stencil also have to be covered.

4. Once your screen is nice and ink-proof, mix up your paint. The silk screen ink can be used pretty much out of the pot, but the acrylic medium needs to be mixed up- “from 0.5-1 part to 1 part colour” or in regular language: pretty much half and half. If you’re mixing up a colour, always add the medium first, then the lightest colour, and so on, in order to avoid mixing excess paint.

5. Paint mixed, screen taped, paper ready? Time to screen! Pour out about a tablespoon of your ink onto the top of your screen, then use your squeegee to draw it across your screen, in one movement with barely any downward pressure, and holding the squeegee at about a 45 degree angle. This should flood your screen with ink, and hopefully shouldn’t force the ink onto the surface below. Then place your good paper below and use a similar action in the opposite direction with a firm pressure to force out the ink onto the paper or fabric.

For every image you screen there should always be the two movements with the squeegee- the flood and the screen. The flood is a lighter movement, and merely causes the ink particles to be held in the fine mesh exposed by your image. The following action, should be firmer and should cause the ink to be transfered to the paper or fabric below. If you need to leave your screen for a minute or two- always flood it first to make sure the ink doesn’t dry quickly and block the mesh.

6. Dry your prints- the obligatory photo showing off my paper drying line!

It’s We Make friend, Paul Edwards, enjoy!

You will need:

• 1. block printing ink. (can be waterbased or oil based. Oil is messier, water dries quicker)
• 2. something in which to mix your ink.
• 3. a brayer.
• 4. a flat, non porous surface. Glass or acrylic work well, or even a kitchen surface, so long as you clean up quickly.
• 5. a mixing tool- preferably an old brush.
• 6. a stack of nice paper.
• 7. a stack of nasty paper. (unused printouts or newspaper!)

• 1. I’m not very organised, so when I’m doing something like this (in my case with the speedy-drying waterbased ink) I like to set out my space so I can just do things and not have to stress. So set up your tools!

• 2. Then mix your ink. I was going for a neutral purple colour.

I don’t have an image for the next few steps as I was trying to work quickly. But it’s pretty simple!

• 3. Pour a little ink onto your inking surface (glass/acrylic/kitchen work surface). Use your brayer to roll out an even coat. It should be just thick enough to cover the surface, and not so much that it’s too shiny.
• 4. Place your scrap paper over the ink- press down lightly over the whole inky area. (This step just cleans up your image- not necessary.)
• 5. Then start drawing! You can use ball point pen if you like to see what your doing, or you can do it blind and just use blunt instruments such as: the wrong end of a paintbrush, a coffee stirring stick, a finger, whatever you like!
• 6. Peel off your drawing when your done.
• 7. Repeat, just use the brayer each time to make sure your ink is even.
• 8. To clean up just use water and soap for water-based paint, and you can use vegetable oil of white spirits to clean oil based paint. However, then you shouldn’t't really pour this liquid down the drain, which is why I use water-based.

Some of my results:




Variations!

The method described above is linear monotyping (according to this handy website), however another, perhaps more common, method is to ink a shape directly onto the glass, and then use a clean brayer to transfer the ink onto the paper. You can also ink the entire glass, use fabric or a sponge to wipe off certain areas, and produce a reverse image. The former method is shown below.



There’s a few good groups on flickr for monoprinting, here and here. If you use my tutorial, I’d love to see what you come up with, so comment away!